Shirting Fabric Reference Guide

Designer Shirts for Men




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We all like wearing sophisticated cloth. And it makes all the sense. The question really arises in terms of what fabric to wear. Many of our csutomers get baffled on the selection of fabric for their custom made shirts. And we are here to break the unknown. Here is the overview of the main fabric types used in custom made dress shirts. The objevtive is to go through each type and understand the basic ingredients of the fabric. We also provide what type of men prerer one cloth over another.

Denim Fabric

When the word denim comes into play, you immediately think jeans. And that is the case. Denim is now a household word for the jean quality fabric. You want anything in denim, it has to be a jean. Interestingly enough, this is a myth. Denim so happens to be correlated with jeans. However, denim is a twill fabric. It is a bit rough type of fabric. The denim

We all know denim as the fabric of our jeans. But construction wise, denim is a twill fabric. A sturdy, possibly coarser twill. For the most part though, when it comes to denim shirting, you’re mostly going to find much softer, lighter versions of the fabric then what your jeans are made of. Denim shirting can come in many forms but generally will be a bit shiny and be a dramatically different color on the inside than the outside.

Interestingly, denmin fabric was originally made in France and started out as a typical trouser fabric. Denim is a sturdy cotton twill textile. The twill weaving produces the exceptional diagonal ribbing associated with the fabric. Currently, the warp threads are dyed and the weft threads are left plain white. That is one of the reasons why you will see the blue warp threads on the main front and white in the backline.

Denim fabric is used in custom made shirts. However, the occasion is the deciding factor. Many of our valued customers go for the traditional denim fabric since they like the look, cool feel and the easy tone associated with denim.

“ I work in the ranch industry and we need to look sturdy. I like the rough and elegant look combined.” Alan, Dallas

“Beats the summer day uptime environment. I like to relax in denim. Being tall and big doesn’t help. Denim gets me through. I like the traditional demin for all my custom tailored shirts.” Peutro, Canada


Broadcloth is a dense plain woven cloth that typically was based on wool as the source of the raw fabric. Today, broadcloth can be found in wool, cotton and even a mix of cotton blend. The term broadcloth originates in its methodology of being woven. As the name predicts, it is woven wider than typical fabrics. In fact, it is 50-80% wider woven. Wider woven fabric also requires to be heavily milled and soaked to allow for proper shrinking. The wovening and milling of fabric creates a staunch, weatherproof, hard feel cloth used for any form and shape of stitching

Broad cloth is an exceptional fabric to be used for custom made shirts. It is much warn in traditional colder weather. It has the ingredients to be flexible, strong and stylish. We like to define broadcloth fabric as the long term fabric for custom made tailored dress shirts.

“ Broadcloth fabrics are extensively made throughout the globe. We are proud to be main importers of broadcloth material for our valued customers. We make sure that we get the best broadcloth material from England and France. There are many other sub categories of broad-cloth. Please come and feel the differnece.” Director Operations, BeSpokeFitShirt Company

There are many reasons why broadcloth sells as a custom dress shirt fabric. Let us hear from our customers why they enjoy broadcloth fabric.

“ I hate shirts that have bad wear and tear. We like a clean slate. Broadcloth fabric keeps us going in terms of stability. I like the strenght of the fabric.” Sole, New Mexico

Dobby Fabric Cloth

Dobby Fabric Cloth gets its name from the dobby loom. Dobby loom is known for its small geometric patterns and extra texture incorporated into the raw fabric. Newer trends have given differnet colors and shades to the warp and weft sides of the fabric. The market now also uses satin sheets and the outcome is a world class dobby fabric cloth.

Dobby fabric is an excellent choice in terms of a stitched shirt. It makes all the sense if you like the softness, fabric quality and originality of a design. Many of the polo shirts originate from the dobby fabric cloth.


Flannel is the ulimate favorite for dress shirts. It is the soft woven fabric that gives meaning and quality to design. Flannel was orginially made from wool or yarn. Now, flannel can comprise up of wool, cotton and even synthetic fibre. Flannel has a variety of different types and formats. It comes as brushed flannel and unbrushed flannel. Brushing is a methodology to create a finner fabric. Flannel is typically a single side nap but also comes in a double sided nap.

Cotton flanel is one of the most spectacular types of flannel cloth variety available in the market. Ceylon flannel is also used in shirts and bed sheets.

Flannel is not a name for a particular pattern on a shirt. Many people get that wrong. In fact, it is all about the quality of the fabric.

We purchase a variety of different flannel types and clearly mention in in our variety of cloths available in our online store. We are proud of our value and driven market ratios. Enjoy all the different vibrant colors of flannel.

“ I am really delighted about the variety of flannel cloth designs and colors available at bespokefitshirt ocmpany. I have checked other competitors and they do carrry a significant value and range. One of the best in the market.” – Sam, New Jersey

“ Flannel is just the best shirt design cloth that needs to be available. And that too in 100% cotton. Do not recommend the synthetic type. But that depends.” – Mark, Nebraska

Poplin Cloth

Poplin cloth for shirts are also called tabinet cloth. Poplin fabric is a plain weaved fabric with crosswise ribs. Poplin cloth has a corded surface. Poplin consists of a silk wrap with a weft of simple yarn. Since the weft is in the shape and form of a strong course cord, it gives the final product a silky surface.

Poplin are great choices for top line quality shirts. There is no comparison in the market. Poplin cloth is the standard for all upscale dress shirts. The poplin cloth comes in different shapes and colors. The beauty of poplin comes from its stemmic soft surface.


Chambray belongs to the family breed of broadcloth fabric. It stems from a plain weaved fabric and orchestrates a rugged appeal once finished. The beauty of chambray fabric is that it is light weight and is typically used for summer tops. The name chambray is given since it originally stems from cambria, france. Thicker and elegant styles and colors are available as well for the winter sessions.

Chamray cloth is highly recommended by experts for the summer wear product lines. It is an exceptional fabric to be used in the custom tailored shirt business.


End-to-end are high end distinct color and contrast combination shirt fabric. The elegance stems from the colored threads used in the warps and white threads in the weft. It looks like a sold color format but the lining nad difference can be seen from close up. End-to-end fabric is a ligher weight fabric and mostly used in warmer climates. It is recommended as a seasonal cloth for custom tailored shirts. Dress shirt cloths made of end-to-end fabric tend to last a long time.

Majority of top designers and shirt manufactures do use the end-to-end product offering.


One of the main fabrics in the cloth dress market is the Melange fabric. Melange fabric is top dollar fabric that is a particular favorite for all shirt dress makers. Melange is a soft touch finished fabric. Melange fabric is created by a certain level of dying and not dying that creates this unique fabric.

Pima, Sea Island, Egyptian Cotton

Egyptian cotton is also refered to as pima fabric or sea island fabric. The fabric stems from the cotton plant: Gossypium Barbadense. The plant is designed for quality cotton garments.

Royal Oxford

Royal Oxford blends with its name. it is called the beauty fabric of dresss shirts. It is known for its distinct shine and texture. These fabric cloth is used for formal shirts with visible texture.


Twill is a legandary cloth fabric that is used widely by shirt makers around the globe. It is recommended as one of the top fabrics to be used for quality shirts for all shapes and sizes. Twill is known for its diagnal lines and texture. Newer kinds of twill comes with a shiny tone and softness to it. High quality twill can easily be taken as silk. Quality twill is manufactured thorugh tight weaving and by using extremely high thread counts.

The beuaty of twill lies in its wash and wear quality. It is also easy to iron and used in tuxedo and other dress shirt formats.


Choose from over 300 type of imported fabic including solid, pinpoints, Royal Oxford, Twills

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